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Why
'sacred elements'? If reality is non-dual, then everything visible is
not different from (the invisible) Spirit. Vedic cosmology views the
universe as five spiritual or sacred elements: air, fire, water, earth
and space. Because the world is divine it is worthy of worship. Therefore
five temples in South India have been dedicated to the five elements.
Originally, the tour was meant to visit all five
but logistics, time, and an amazing event... the pradakshina at Tiruvannamalai...caused
us to drop the earth and water temples and substitute two extraordinary
sites: the most visited spiritual destination in the world, Tirupathi,
and the Brihadishwara Temple in Tanjavur, a World Heritage site. Depending on a number of factors the dates and the order of the sites visited varies from year to year. Contact www. worldspirit.org.uk for this year's itinerary.
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Tiruvannamalai
The
centerpiece of the Sacred Element's 2005 Tour is a thirteen kilometer
walk on January 15. The walk begins and ends at Arunachalishwara
Temple dedicated to the Fire Element. Hundreds of thousands of
devotees, sometimes as many as a million, circumambulate Arunachala
every full moon.
You are invited to witness and particpate in this awesome event,
a once in a lifetime experience; for twenty four hours the town
is charged with intense spiritual energy. In addition to the circumambulation
two days are alloted for exploring the fascinating environment
around the mountain with its many shines and hundreds of sadhus.
Of particular interest is the Ramanashram, home of one of India's
greatest sages, the Kanappan shine at Shiva's Feet and an ancient
Vishnu temple in a small town not far from Tiruvannamalai.
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Ideal Beach Resort
You will arrive at Chennai, formerly Madras, the
capitol of Tamil Nadu and go by taxi to Mammalapuram, a pleasant
seaside town forty five kilometers to the south where you will
check into Ideal Beach Resort, a peaceful mid-range resort hotel.
Ideal Beach is two kilometers north of Mammalapuram and is completely
self contained with all the amenities including a swimming pool...a
perfect setting in which to unwind from a long international flight.
Should you wish to venture out Mummalapuram has a number of interesting
features, the most notable being the Shore temple (to the right),
a ninth century relic reclaimed from the sea. Mammalapuram is
the center of the stone carving industry and supplies idols for
India's many temples. The solid rock hillock behind the town sports
a world class bas relief called Arjuna's pennance and many interesting
shrines are carved into it.
We will get together Sunday evening for
dinner at 6:30 to meet each other and discuss the tour. Mid-morning
Monday depending on the direction of the tour we either leave for Tirupathi or for Pondicherry, a pleasant two hour drive
along the coast.
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Pondicherry
Pondicherry,
a large prosperous city on the coast, was a French colony
until Independence in 1945. Spiritually, it is known for the
Aurobindo Ashram which occupies the choicest real estate in
the city next to the sea. Aurobindo was an Oxford educated
Bengali who attained enlightenment in a British prison. He
gave up politics and settled in Pondicherry and a large ashram
grew up around him. It is thriving today some fifty years
after his death with some three thousand members in residence.
The ashram and samadhi where Aurobindo and his consort, The
Mother, are buried attracts hundreds of people each day. After
the samadhi we will take in an
extraordinary Ganesh temple near the ashram that carries exceptionally
strong spiritual vibrations. Another item of interest is Auroville
and the Matrimandir. Auroville is a large community of devotees
of Aurobindo and The Mother who have created a veritable paradise
out of barren land. The centerpiece of the community is the
Matramandir, a colossal golden meditation dome. In the evening
we will dine at one of Pondicherry's many excellent restaurants.
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Chidambaram
Mammalapuram and Pondicherry are
India no doubt but they contain enough elements of the modern
world to make them at least vaguely familiar. When we leave Pondicherry
on Tuesday morning we step into a world that time forgot. The
temple at Chidambaram, whose bathing tank and north gopuram
is pictured on the right, is dedicated to the Space element, the
all pervading Self as the container of the cosmos. The temple
in its present form is about one thousand years old and is owned
and administered by a sub-caste of Brahmin priests called dikshitars.
To step into this temple is to enter into the timeless world of
Vedic spiritual culture. It is fair to say that nothing here has
changed in thousands of years.
After checking in to our hotel around noon (mind you, Chidambaram
is a sleepy dusty town...definitely nothing to write home about...
and the hotel is a bit of a letdown after our previous accommodations)
we will eat and take it easy until the evening service which begins
about five thirty. It is a large temple complex with many shrines
to dozens of deities. I will explain the symbolism of the deities
and the temple and you are welcome to wander about as you see
fit or just sit quietly and observe the spectacle. We will meet
Apu, one of the priests, who will take us into the inner sanctum...
which is something to write home about.
Wednesday is an unstructured day. You are free to do what you
please. India is never boring and it is always rewarding to just
wander around and have adventures. Those
who are not 'templed out' might enjoy a visit to a healing temple
eighteen kilometers from Chidambaram.
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Thanjavur
The
three hour drive from Chidambaram to Thanjavur through the lush
Cauvery River delta is one of the most pleasant in India. If we
can manage an early start we can have the darshan
of the deity in a major temple at Kumbakonam, one of the many temple
towns along the route, before proceeding to the Ideal River Resort.
The Ideal River Resort, an excellent hotel in a peaceful rural setting
on a meandering river on the outskirts of Thanjavur, a major city,
will be our base for three days. Thanjavur's main attraction is
the Brihadishwara temple whose huge gate and temple in the distance
is seen in the photo on the right. It is not only a World Heritage
site and a world class monument but an awesome center of spiritual
power. Brihadiswara, "The Lord of the Vastness,' is a Shiva
temple with a lingam that stands 23 feet high. It is virtually impossible
not to be moved by this temple and the simple but inspiring puja
that is performed throughout the day. Thanjavur is an hour's drive
from Tiruchirappali, a huge city on the Cauvery River. On Friday
we will visit the Rock Fort Temple in the heart of the city. The
temple is situated on top of a solid rock hill with commanding views
of the city, the river and the Sri Rangam Temple complex, the largest
temple in India. The twenty minute climb to the top through the
interior of the rock which has been carved to accommodate steps
and several shrines is an unforgettable experience. Nothing is scheduled
for Saturday. The Ideal River Resort is such a pleasant facility
that usually tour particpants opt to spend a quiet day at home but
it is quite possible to venture into the city and wander about on
your own. We get an early start Monday in order to arrive about
noon at Tiruvannamalai.
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Kalahasti
and Tirupathi
The
circumambulation of Arunachala is a tough act to follow but the
tour ends up on a high note. From Tiruvannamalai we make the five
hour journey to Tirupathi in Andra Pradesh, just beyond the border
of Tamil Nadu. There are simply not enough superlatives to describe
the power of this site which is situated on a range of mountains
above the town. Tirupathi is one of the most visited spiritual destinations
in the world and the richest temple in India. This is so because
Venkateshwara, an incarnation of Vishnu, is a boon granting deity.
It is not uncommon for devotees to wait twelve hours for a five
second darshan of the deity. Fortunately a one hour cue is available
for one hundred rupees, about two dollars, and we will avail outselves
of that option. Standing in the cue is an integral part of the Tirupathi
darshan because one becomes completely saturated with the ecstatic
vibrations of the devotees in anticipation of their vision of God.
Because the tickets are in such demand it is not possible to get
them on the day of our arrival so we will visit the temple on Friday
evening.
In the meantime, on Friday morning we will take in the Air Element
temple at Kalahasti, a forty five minute drive from Tirupathi. All
the temples on the tour are exceptional and Kalahasti is no exception.
It is situated in a senic setting on a small river at the foot of
a small hill. The temple itself is not particularly physically imposing
but it gives off an unmistakable fragrance of divine love. There
is a large Banyan tree in the temple courtyard where one can sit
before and after the darshan soaking up the atmosphere. The temple's
vibrations are so pure that it has had an effect on the whole town.
Kalahasti is unique as far as Indian towns go; the streets are clean,
the traffic is orderly and the people are very mellow. We will take
our lunch on banana leaves in a 'meals' place near the temple.
Mammalapuram
Saturday, January 29
Mid-morning Saturday we return to Mammalapuram, say our goodbyes
and go our separate ways.
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